Tuesday, March 30, 2010
And another....
From your amazing foreign correspondent in Paraguay............Semana Santa!
Semana Santa (Easter Week) begins today (as I write this) with Palm Sunday. My mother is going to have a misa (mass) at her house with the sacerdote (priest). Despite the low rate of weekly-church-going Catholics, as in the states, 95% of the country is culturally Catholic.
On Wednesday, each family will partake in the Paraguayan tradition of baking rolls and rolls of Chipa. Chipa is a delicious, heavy breadlike product made from mandioca flour (think potato flour) and pig fat. Mmmmmmmmmmm. When its old, its dry and gross, but fresh warm chipa is makes me go weak at the knees.
...Moving on. I'm pretty sure that on Easter Day, most of the community is going to get themselves to one of the capilla's (chapels) in the area. Further details as events warrant.
A few random thoughts next. Several of you have asked for more general observations about Paraguay. First, the weather here is changing slightly. The mornings are chilly, sometimes misty. But around 11:30, the sun bursts through again, and by 2pm, its back in the mid-80's-low 90's. (And no, it's not always paradise, especially with 90% humidity.)
I'd better explain a little about my group here. In Paraguay, there are 230 volunteers, ma o meno. That group is expected to rise to 300 or so in the coming year as Pres. Obama is pumping a lot more money into the agency as a whole. Peace Corps in Paraguay is also one of the biggest programs in the country - only Ukraine has more volunteers.
Within the 230, 49 are in my "G" or training group. We will be working in three different sectors - Health and Sanitation (mine), Early Education, and Urban Youth. The Health and Sanitation group has about half of that 49. It was then split in half. About half of them live in a compania (unincorporated township) about six kilometers away from my group. And also, I can finally give some details into what I will be doing. Peace Corps volunteers work in sustainable development. Now, I was an English major, so development peeps might differ on this definition, but essentially, development works in two ways - physical assistance, and more difficult to quantify development work that we will be doing. Essentially, we're going to be working with interested parties to help them gather the resources to execute projects THEY want completed. That might mean giving nutrition presentations to women's committees to try to get more veggies into local diets, it might mean working with a local governmental group to get money to build brick ovens, or it could mean teaching self-esteem and life-planning classes to high school students. It also means teaching or developing leaders for said projects so they will continue, if necessary, once we are gone. What it DOESN'T mean is contacting some random church or aid agency and asking for something that will be useless once it breaks in five years and possibly leave the community worse off and dependent.
The physical projects might include building those brick ovens, latrines, or wells. We had a tech overnight class, and my group pulled a tree trunk out of a natural spring. It had been there for 20 years or so, serving as an ad hoc pipe. We dug down to clay and built a brocal (sort of like a well) instead.
In our week long project week, my group visited a departmento (state) called missiones in southern Paraguay. Its a beautiful site, with hills and rivers, and incredible thunderstorms. While we were there, we gave several charlas (presentations) at the primary school. Sara and I taught a class on nutrition and then on identity. We did this activity called "Personal Flag," which helps kids identify how they are unique and how each has specific interests andl ideals. It might sound silly, but its not, and its a great way to lead forward into talking about values, which leads to relationships, which leads to sex ed, which leads to AIDS awareness and prevention.
..............................
And now a few more random observations. Parties here in Paraguay are totally different from parties in the states. So far I have been to two paraguayan style parties - a town-wide dance, and a quinceanera. In the town wide dance, everyone shows up an hour two three hours after its supposed to start (bringing fashionably late to a new level!) and then eat dinner.
In our case, the PC trainees were sitting together in groups watching it all go down. One group of Paraguayan men sat on their motos chatting and sharing beers. The young women sat with their escorts, and finally after the beer took the edge off their nervousness they started dancing. More on the quince in a bit.
......
I hope the description so far hasnt struck you all as negative. Here are some of the things I like about Py.
First, this country is ALIVE. Its Red-green, lush jade, blue green, its just pulsing with plant and animal life. Every family has a ton of animals- cows, dogs, cats, chickens, parrots, sheep, pigs, and turkeys. And all the animals = specifically the cats and dogs, is wonderful. I'm sure I'd be having a much more difficult time if I didn't have all of the animals around. For example, One of my dogs, Camilla, adopted me, and follows me everywhere - we have to kick her out of my classroom every day. She used to have an infection that got into her brain, and so her right rear leg twitches like she's dancing. But whenever I go anywhere, I've got that little puppy pressed at my knee.
Paraguayans as a whole are incredibly giving and generous. If you walk up to anyone's house, the family immediately asks you to sit and have a terere. In the state´s, an unwarranted visit might mean the peson behind the door might call the cops.
And of course, my favorite thing about Paraguay - Soccer. I don't know which fools decided that soccer shouldn't be a popular sport back home, but it is beyond fantastic. Every Saturday, one of the other volunteers and I head to the cancha (field) and play a few games with the men from the area. Every time I play, I'm struck by the athleticism, the fluidity which is its own ballet - so much more real than watching 300-lb brutes pummel each other in 6 second spurts. I never played soccer back home formally, but I'm learning a ton here.
Semana Santa (Easter Week) begins today (as I write this) with Palm Sunday. My mother is going to have a misa (mass) at her house with the sacerdote (priest). Despite the low rate of weekly-church-going Catholics, as in the states, 95% of the country is culturally Catholic.
On Wednesday, each family will partake in the Paraguayan tradition of baking rolls and rolls of Chipa. Chipa is a delicious, heavy breadlike product made from mandioca flour (think potato flour) and pig fat. Mmmmmmmmmmm. When its old, its dry and gross, but fresh warm chipa is makes me go weak at the knees.
...Moving on. I'm pretty sure that on Easter Day, most of the community is going to get themselves to one of the capilla's (chapels) in the area. Further details as events warrant.
A few random thoughts next. Several of you have asked for more general observations about Paraguay. First, the weather here is changing slightly. The mornings are chilly, sometimes misty. But around 11:30, the sun bursts through again, and by 2pm, its back in the mid-80's-low 90's. (And no, it's not always paradise, especially with 90% humidity.)
I'd better explain a little about my group here. In Paraguay, there are 230 volunteers, ma o meno. That group is expected to rise to 300 or so in the coming year as Pres. Obama is pumping a lot more money into the agency as a whole. Peace Corps in Paraguay is also one of the biggest programs in the country - only Ukraine has more volunteers.
Within the 230, 49 are in my "G" or training group. We will be working in three different sectors - Health and Sanitation (mine), Early Education, and Urban Youth. The Health and Sanitation group has about half of that 49. It was then split in half. About half of them live in a compania (unincorporated township) about six kilometers away from my group. And also, I can finally give some details into what I will be doing. Peace Corps volunteers work in sustainable development. Now, I was an English major, so development peeps might differ on this definition, but essentially, development works in two ways - physical assistance, and more difficult to quantify development work that we will be doing. Essentially, we're going to be working with interested parties to help them gather the resources to execute projects THEY want completed. That might mean giving nutrition presentations to women's committees to try to get more veggies into local diets, it might mean working with a local governmental group to get money to build brick ovens, or it could mean teaching self-esteem and life-planning classes to high school students. It also means teaching or developing leaders for said projects so they will continue, if necessary, once we are gone. What it DOESN'T mean is contacting some random church or aid agency and asking for something that will be useless once it breaks in five years and possibly leave the community worse off and dependent.
The physical projects might include building those brick ovens, latrines, or wells. We had a tech overnight class, and my group pulled a tree trunk out of a natural spring. It had been there for 20 years or so, serving as an ad hoc pipe. We dug down to clay and built a brocal (sort of like a well) instead.
In our week long project week, my group visited a departmento (state) called missiones in southern Paraguay. Its a beautiful site, with hills and rivers, and incredible thunderstorms. While we were there, we gave several charlas (presentations) at the primary school. Sara and I taught a class on nutrition and then on identity. We did this activity called "Personal Flag," which helps kids identify how they are unique and how each has specific interests andl ideals. It might sound silly, but its not, and its a great way to lead forward into talking about values, which leads to relationships, which leads to sex ed, which leads to AIDS awareness and prevention.
..............................
And now a few more random observations. Parties here in Paraguay are totally different from parties in the states. So far I have been to two paraguayan style parties - a town-wide dance, and a quinceanera. In the town wide dance, everyone shows up an hour two three hours after its supposed to start (bringing fashionably late to a new level!) and then eat dinner.
In our case, the PC trainees were sitting together in groups watching it all go down. One group of Paraguayan men sat on their motos chatting and sharing beers. The young women sat with their escorts, and finally after the beer took the edge off their nervousness they started dancing. More on the quince in a bit.
......
I hope the description so far hasnt struck you all as negative. Here are some of the things I like about Py.
First, this country is ALIVE. Its Red-green, lush jade, blue green, its just pulsing with plant and animal life. Every family has a ton of animals- cows, dogs, cats, chickens, parrots, sheep, pigs, and turkeys. And all the animals = specifically the cats and dogs, is wonderful. I'm sure I'd be having a much more difficult time if I didn't have all of the animals around. For example, One of my dogs, Camilla, adopted me, and follows me everywhere - we have to kick her out of my classroom every day. She used to have an infection that got into her brain, and so her right rear leg twitches like she's dancing. But whenever I go anywhere, I've got that little puppy pressed at my knee.
Paraguayans as a whole are incredibly giving and generous. If you walk up to anyone's house, the family immediately asks you to sit and have a terere. In the state´s, an unwarranted visit might mean the peson behind the door might call the cops.
And of course, my favorite thing about Paraguay - Soccer. I don't know which fools decided that soccer shouldn't be a popular sport back home, but it is beyond fantastic. Every Saturday, one of the other volunteers and I head to the cancha (field) and play a few games with the men from the area. Every time I play, I'm struck by the athleticism, the fluidity which is its own ballet - so much more real than watching 300-lb brutes pummel each other in 6 second spurts. I never played soccer back home formally, but I'm learning a ton here.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Hey
there are a few problems uploading fotos, not sure why. When I get to another internet cafe, i will try again.
Terere
Topic Two: Terere
I wanted to talk about something pretty basic for this post. Paraguay's hot. Not deal-breaking hot, but definitely toasty. It's frequently around 35-38C, which means its frequently in the mid 80s-90s. So how to deal with the heat and humidity? Some genius long ago came up with Terere.
Terere is the iced version of Mate. Whenever Paraguayans gather, they end up forming a circle, and passing around the stuff. Here's how it works: you take a guampa, which holds the yerba. Guampa's are usually made of horn, or metal, sometimes it can be as simple as a cup. Yerba (a tea made of herbs) are packed into the guampa, and then a bombilla is inserted into it. A bombilla is a metal straw with a filter at the bottom to keep herbs from seeping into your mouth when you're hoovering up terere.
Paraguayans then dump water, yuyos (fragrant leaves or other herbs) and ice into a separate thermos. Really refrescante (Refreshing) mixes use freshly squeezed lime too. Anyways, the water is poured into the guampa, drank, and then the guampa is refilled and passed to the next person.
Its a way to stay constantly hydrated, it has a taste different from plain water, and its a great way to get to know people.
I'll post some pictures of the stuff as soon as i can.
I wanted to talk about something pretty basic for this post. Paraguay's hot. Not deal-breaking hot, but definitely toasty. It's frequently around 35-38C, which means its frequently in the mid 80s-90s. So how to deal with the heat and humidity? Some genius long ago came up with Terere.
Terere is the iced version of Mate. Whenever Paraguayans gather, they end up forming a circle, and passing around the stuff. Here's how it works: you take a guampa, which holds the yerba. Guampa's are usually made of horn, or metal, sometimes it can be as simple as a cup. Yerba (a tea made of herbs) are packed into the guampa, and then a bombilla is inserted into it. A bombilla is a metal straw with a filter at the bottom to keep herbs from seeping into your mouth when you're hoovering up terere.
Paraguayans then dump water, yuyos (fragrant leaves or other herbs) and ice into a separate thermos. Really refrescante (Refreshing) mixes use freshly squeezed lime too. Anyways, the water is poured into the guampa, drank, and then the guampa is refilled and passed to the next person.
Its a way to stay constantly hydrated, it has a taste different from plain water, and its a great way to get to know people.
I'll post some pictures of the stuff as soon as i can.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
First real post...
Hello everybody. I hope you are all well. This will be my first blog entry since I landed on the ground in Paraguay about three weeks ago. There's been a lot that happened since then. Lets start at the beginning.
I landed in Asuncion with 48 other freaked out and excited American men and women - all young, below the age of 30. There are 24 in my group (including me) which is RHS - rural health and sanitation. There are two other groups as well, early education and urban youth. We are in communities about an hour and change southeast of Asuncion.
I ended up in a house with my host mom, Marianna, and her children Lissa (21) and Eva janina (13). For all intents and purposes, they are my family here for the next three months.
Luckily, I like them very much, and I think they me. We live in a semi modern house in the campo (rural area). My family has 20 turkeys, 3 cows (which live 20 feet from my window), and a swarm of very annoying chickens.
There are also three dogs (doggy, camilla, and mancho), and some sheep.
...
Let's move on, yea?
Five and a half days of the week, I have class. Language class in the morning, technical training in the evening. Usually, I wake at 5 or 6 because of the mutherfricking^*^&*%^&*( roosters, and then drink some terere or mate with my host mom. This drink is a mixture of yuyos (herbs) and yerba, with either cold water (terere) or mate (hot water.) Its great.
I head to class at around 7:45, and we have language training until 11:30. For the first 2 weeks, I reviewed Spanish. Now we have moved to Guarani, the indigenous language. Paraguay is quite unique in the South American countries because it has enthusiastically embraced its native past - fully 90% of its population speaks guarani. Only 75% speaks Spanish.
At 11:30, I have lunch. At 1, class resumes.
A word here, on the diet. The paraguayan diet here is... challenging. The main foodstuff is mandioc'a (or mandio or manioc), a tuber somewhat like potato. I'm still getting accustomed to it. Also, it's a food culture based on meat, and may be empanadas. There are a ton of quality fruits, due to the abundant waterfall and subtropical heat, but verduras (vegetables) are more scarce. We eat tortillas (deep fried mixes of eggs, cheese, and flour), boiled mandioca, milanesa (deep fried meat), and more. Breakfast is milk with sweetened soy powder. Lunch is the main meal. Dinner is whatever is around. My mom here has presion - blood pressure issues - so I get to eat more veggies and rice and less fried stuff.
In the afternoon, we have technical training - learning how to give charlas (conversations, presentations, or discussions) on nutrition, sexual health, how to build fogons (brick ovens), more sanitary latrines, and numerous other topics.
The people in my class and group are great, all really with-it, giving people with the broader picture in mind. Getting to know them has been an affirming experience.
...
In the afternoons, I usually play soccer with the neighborhood kids. This worked out well until recently, when they popped my pelota (soccer ball) during a game. Since I currently make the equivalent of $4 a day, I won't be buying another one soon.
...
Honestly guys, I'm trying to think of what else to tell you, but we have a pretty set schedule so far. My observations so far has been surprise at the lack of difficulty of bathing - sometimes when there hasn't been rain we don't have water for the shower, but I almost prefer bucket baths, they're really easy. Bathrooms are either similar to the states or latrines, but that's no big deal either - I don't know what would be that hard about a squat latrine. Also, we walk a lot, and I eat a lot less than in the states - I've lost 11 pounds since I got here - and the people are very nice and helpful here.
I visited a volunteer in the campo for our observation. Basically a "This is how Volunteers live - are you SURE you want to do this?" sort of thing. I went into the hills and chilled out with Tomas. He's a whiz with homemade food - we had pancakes, bean burgers, cheese and wine, all that we made or that he had made from scratch previously. It's beautiful, hot country. I went swimming in an arroyo, and talked a lot with his neighbors.
...
That's the first three weeks guys. A word to the wise, this blog will work much better with input from all of you. I don't have a cell and I get to the internet once every 9 days or so. So tell me, what do YOU want to learn about paraguay? About my service? What would interest you to read about?
...
Luego dudes.
I landed in Asuncion with 48 other freaked out and excited American men and women - all young, below the age of 30. There are 24 in my group (including me) which is RHS - rural health and sanitation. There are two other groups as well, early education and urban youth. We are in communities about an hour and change southeast of Asuncion.
I ended up in a house with my host mom, Marianna, and her children Lissa (21) and Eva janina (13). For all intents and purposes, they are my family here for the next three months.
Luckily, I like them very much, and I think they me. We live in a semi modern house in the campo (rural area). My family has 20 turkeys, 3 cows (which live 20 feet from my window), and a swarm of very annoying chickens.
There are also three dogs (doggy, camilla, and mancho), and some sheep.
...
Let's move on, yea?
Five and a half days of the week, I have class. Language class in the morning, technical training in the evening. Usually, I wake at 5 or 6 because of the mutherfricking^*^&*%^&*( roosters, and then drink some terere or mate with my host mom. This drink is a mixture of yuyos (herbs) and yerba, with either cold water (terere) or mate (hot water.) Its great.
I head to class at around 7:45, and we have language training until 11:30. For the first 2 weeks, I reviewed Spanish. Now we have moved to Guarani, the indigenous language. Paraguay is quite unique in the South American countries because it has enthusiastically embraced its native past - fully 90% of its population speaks guarani. Only 75% speaks Spanish.
At 11:30, I have lunch. At 1, class resumes.
A word here, on the diet. The paraguayan diet here is... challenging. The main foodstuff is mandioc'a (or mandio or manioc), a tuber somewhat like potato. I'm still getting accustomed to it. Also, it's a food culture based on meat, and may be empanadas. There are a ton of quality fruits, due to the abundant waterfall and subtropical heat, but verduras (vegetables) are more scarce. We eat tortillas (deep fried mixes of eggs, cheese, and flour), boiled mandioca, milanesa (deep fried meat), and more. Breakfast is milk with sweetened soy powder. Lunch is the main meal. Dinner is whatever is around. My mom here has presion - blood pressure issues - so I get to eat more veggies and rice and less fried stuff.
In the afternoon, we have technical training - learning how to give charlas (conversations, presentations, or discussions) on nutrition, sexual health, how to build fogons (brick ovens), more sanitary latrines, and numerous other topics.
The people in my class and group are great, all really with-it, giving people with the broader picture in mind. Getting to know them has been an affirming experience.
...
In the afternoons, I usually play soccer with the neighborhood kids. This worked out well until recently, when they popped my pelota (soccer ball) during a game. Since I currently make the equivalent of $4 a day, I won't be buying another one soon.
...
Honestly guys, I'm trying to think of what else to tell you, but we have a pretty set schedule so far. My observations so far has been surprise at the lack of difficulty of bathing - sometimes when there hasn't been rain we don't have water for the shower, but I almost prefer bucket baths, they're really easy. Bathrooms are either similar to the states or latrines, but that's no big deal either - I don't know what would be that hard about a squat latrine. Also, we walk a lot, and I eat a lot less than in the states - I've lost 11 pounds since I got here - and the people are very nice and helpful here.
I visited a volunteer in the campo for our observation. Basically a "This is how Volunteers live - are you SURE you want to do this?" sort of thing. I went into the hills and chilled out with Tomas. He's a whiz with homemade food - we had pancakes, bean burgers, cheese and wine, all that we made or that he had made from scratch previously. It's beautiful, hot country. I went swimming in an arroyo, and talked a lot with his neighbors.
...
That's the first three weeks guys. A word to the wise, this blog will work much better with input from all of you. I don't have a cell and I get to the internet once every 9 days or so. So tell me, what do YOU want to learn about paraguay? About my service? What would interest you to read about?
...
Luego dudes.
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